Japanese sesame sauce (Goma-dare)

1. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan for 2-3 minutes, shaking constantly, until fragrant and pale gold.

2. While still warm, put them in a mortar (or small grinder) and grind until you have an oily, thick paste – this takes 3-5 minutes.

3. Add the sugar and keep grinding until it dissolves.

4. Gradually stir in the soy sauce, rice vinegar and mirin.

5. Finally thin with the dashi to the consistency you want: thicker for dipping, thinner for dressing salads.

6. It keeps for 1 week in a jar in the fridge; serve with shabu-shabu, cold noodles and boiled vegetables.

Tip: Goma-dare is shabu-shabu's classic partner alongside ponzu. If you're in a hurry, you can use 3 tablespoons of tahini instead of the toasted sesame paste.