Homemade garam masala spice blend

1. Break the cinnamon sticks into smaller pieces, lightly crush the black cardamom pods and crumble the bay leaves.

2. Heat a dry, heavy-based frying pan over medium heat and add the coriander and cumin seeds. Toast, shaking constantly, for 1-2 minutes until fragrant and a shade darker.

3. Add the cinnamon, black cardamom, cloves, black pepper and bay leaves and toast for about 1 minute more. Take care not to let them burn: burnt spices taste bitter.

4. Tip the spices onto a plate and let them cool completely.

5. Grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, then mix in the ground cardamom and freshly grated nutmeg. Shake through a sieve and regrind any coarse bits.

6. Store in an airtight jar away from light; it keeps its full aroma for 2-3 months.

Tip: Garam masala means "warm spice blend", and a pinch of it goes into almost every North Indian curry at the end. Freshly toasted and ground, it is incomparably more fragrant than the shop-bought kind, so it is worth making in small batches, but often.