1. In a bowl, whisk the gram flour smooth with the yoghurt, water, grated ginger, finely chopped green chilli, sugar, salt and citric acid. Leave for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, oil a 20 cm round tin and bring water to the boil in a large lidded pan or steamer.
2. Just before steaming, stir the oil and bicarbonate of soda into the batter and mix quickly in one direction: the batter will immediately start to foam and rise. Pour it into the tin straight away.
3. Put the tin in the steamer, cover and steam over a strong steam for 15-18 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean. Leave to cool for 5 minutes, then cut into squares.
4. For the tadka, heat the oil in a small pan, fry the mustard seeds, then add the curry leaves and slit green chillies.
5. Pour in the water, stir in the sugar, bring to the boil and spoon the hot spiced syrup evenly over the dhokla squares so they soak it up.
6. Sprinkle with the desiccated coconut and chopped coriander and serve with green chutney.
Tip: Gujarat's fluffy, light, slightly sweet and tangy snack. Bicarbonate of soda reacting with citric acid makes it rise, so add it only at the last moment and don't wait to steam, or it will collapse.
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