Green chilli and lime seafood sauce (Nam chim thale)

1. Roughly chop the green chillies (remove some seeds for a milder sauce); peel the garlic.

2. Finely chop the coriander stems, roots and leaves.

3. In a mortar, pound the garlic with the salt to a pulp, then add the chillies and coriander and pound to a coarse paste.

4. Add the palm sugar and pound until dissolved.

5. Stir in the fish sauce and lime juice; it should be vividly sour, hot and salty with just a hint of sweetness.

6. Serve with grilled or steamed prawns, squid, mussels and fish.

Tip: The essential bright-green sauce of Thai seaside grill bars. It's best fresh – after a few hours the colour of chilli and coriander fades; you can use a blender, but the pounded version is more fragrant.