Fried aubergine steeped in dashi (Nasu no nibitashi)

1. Bring the dashi to the boil with the soy sauce and mirin in a pan and pour it into a shallow dish.

2. Quarter the aubergines lengthways, then cut into 5 cm pieces, and score the skin closely on the diagonal so it absorbs the liquid better.

3. Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the aubergine skin side down for 3 minutes first, then on the other sides for 3-4 minutes in total until soft.

4. Transfer the hot aubergine immediately into the warm dashi and turn to coat.

5. Cool to room temperature, then chill for at least 1 hour (or overnight) so the flavour soaks in.

6. Spoon into small bowls with their liquid and serve cold with grated ginger and thin spring onion rings.

Tip: "Nibitashi" means "cooked and steeped": the hot aubergine soaks up the dashi like a sponge. It's best ice-cold in summer and keeps for 3 days in the fridge.