Filipino vinegar-cured raw tuna (Kinilaw)

1. Cut the very fresh, sushi-grade tuna into 1.5 cm cubes and keep in the fridge.

2. Chop the ginger very finely, slice the onion into thin half-moons and the chillies into rings, and deseed and dice the cucumber.

3. Put the fish in a glass bowl, salt it and pour over two-thirds of the coconut vinegar; toss for 2-3 minutes, then pour the vinegar off – this "washes" the fish.

4. Pour over the rest of the coconut vinegar and the calamansi juice, add the ginger, onion, chilli, sugar and pepper and leave in the fridge for 10-15 minutes until the edges of the fish turn white and the centre is still pink.

5. Just before serving, stir in the cucumber and coconut milk and taste: it should be sour, hot and fresh.

6. Serve cold in small bowls as a starter or with beer.

Tip: An ancient dish type of the Philippines, long predating the Spanish; a relative of South American ceviche, but made with vinegar. Use only the freshest fish from a trusted source.