Erzurum-style horizontal lamb kebab (Cağ kebabı)

1. Slice the lamb leg, slightly frozen, into thin, palm-sized slices.

2. Grate the onion, squeeze out its juice, toss the meat with the olive oil, pepper and onion juice and chill for at least 4 hours (or overnight).

3. Stack the slices tightly on a skewer to form a compact cylinder; salt just before cooking.

4. Turn over hot charcoal or a grill and, as the outer layer browns, shave it off thinly with a sharp knife – working layer by layer.

5. Thread the shaved meat onto small skewers or put it straight onto the lavash.

6. Serve wrapped in lavash with sumac onions, parsley and lemon.

Tip: The pride of Erzurum and the horizontal, charcoal-grilled ancestor of döner. At home you can make it in a griddle pan: cook the slices one by one over high heat for 1 minute each.