1. Put the brisket in a large pot, cover with the water, add the bay leaves and half the salt, bring to the boil, skim, then simmer, covered, over low heat for 2-2½ hours until the meat falls apart.
2. Let the meat cool slightly in the broth, then lift out and shred into long thin strands with two forks or your hands – hence the name: it looks like tattered "old clothes"; set aside 400 ml of the cooking broth.
3. Heat the olive oil in a wide pan and soften the onions and bell peppers, cut into thin strips, for 8-10 minutes, then add the crushed garlic, cumin and oregano.
4. Pour in the white wine, boil for 2 minutes, then add the grated or finely chopped tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes until thick.
5. Stir in the shredded beef, pour in the reserved broth, add the green olives and simmer uncovered over low heat for another 20 minutes, until the meat has soaked up most of the sauce; season with the rest of the salt and pepper.
6. Serve with white rice, black beans (or moros y cristianos) and fried ripe plantains (maduros).
Tip: With a pressure cooker the beef is tender in 45 minutes – and shredding is easiest while it's still warm.
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