Cretan barley rusk with tomato (Dakos)

1. Grate the tomatoes (the skin stays in your hand) and let the pulp drain slightly in a sieve; salt lightly.

2. Hold the paximadi (barley rusks) briefly under cold running water to soften them a little without letting them fall apart.

3. Put the rusks on plates and drizzle each with 1 tablespoon olive oil.

4. Spoon the grated tomato generously over them.

5. Crumble the mizithra on top, scatter over the capers and olives and sprinkle with oregano.

6. Drizzle with the rest of the olive oil and leave for 5 minutes so the rusks soak up the tomato juices, then serve.

Tip: Dakos is Crete's summer icon. Mizithra is a fresh, slightly tangy Cretan sheep's cheese – if you can't find it, use ricotta or crumbled feta; instead of paximadi, you can dry slices of stale wholemeal bread in the oven.