Cheesy birria tacos (Quesabirria)

1. Stem and deseed the chilies, toast them in a dry pan for a few seconds, then soak in hot water for 20 minutes. Blend the soaked chilies with half the onion, the garlic, cinnamon, cumin, vinegar and a little soaking liquid until smooth.

2. Cut the beef shin into large pieces, salt them, put them in a large pot, pour over the chili sauce and the water, bring to the boil, then cover and simmer gently for 3-3½ hours until the meat falls apart.

3. Lift out the meat and shred it; skim the red fat from the top of the broth into a small bowl, season the broth (consomé) with salt and keep it warm.

4. Dip the tortillas one at a time into the red fat, put them in a hot pan, pile grated Oaxaca cheese and shredded meat on one half and fold over. If you have no Oaxaca cheese, mozzarella works too.

5. Fry for 2-3 minutes per side, until the tortilla is crisp and the cheese has melted.

6. Serve the tacos with finely chopped onion and coriander, lime wedges and a cup of hot consomé – dunk the tacos into it as you eat.

Tip: You can cook the birria the day before; in the fridge the fat sets on top of the broth and is easy to lift off.