Carlsbad ham and bread dumpling (Karlovarský knedlík)

1. Cut the rolls (day-old ones are best) into 1 cm cubes and toast them lightly in half the butter in a large frying pan, stirring, for 5-6 minutes; tip into a bowl.

2. Finely dice the ham, chop the parsley and mix into the bread cubes.

3. Whisk the milk with the eggs, salt and pepper, pour over the bread mixture, turn gently and leave for 20 minutes so the bread soaks up the liquid.

4. Grease a sheet of heatproof cling film about 60 × 40 cm thinly with the remaining butter, pile the mixture along the long side and roll into a tight log about 6 cm across; tie the ends in a knot. You can make two logs.

5. Bring water to the boil in a wide pot, lower in the logs and simmer gently for 30 minutes; lift out and rest for 5 minutes before unwrapping.

6. Cut into 1.5 cm slices with thread or a sharp knife and serve as a side with meats in sauce (goulash, svíčková, stews).

Tip: Carlsbad dumpling is the refined ham-and-parsley bread dumpling of the genteel kitchens of Czech spa towns; fry leftover slices the next day in butter with egg.