Bulgarian pepper and tomato relish (Lyutenitsa)

1. Roast the peppers and aubergine on a grill or in a 220 °C oven, turning them, for 30-35 minutes until the skins blacken; cover and steam for 15 minutes, then peel and deseed the peppers.

2. Cut a cross in the base of the tomatoes, dip them in boiling water for 1 minute, peel and chop roughly.

3. Purée the roasted vegetables and tomatoes through a mincer or with a stick blender (lyutenitsa is smoother than ajvar).

4. Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan, add the purée and cook over low heat, stirring often, for 60-70 minutes until thick enough for a spoon to leave a trail.

5. Finally stir in the crushed garlic, sugar, hot paprika and salt and cook for another 5 minutes.

6. Serve cooled, spread on toast, with sirene or alongside grilled meats; poured into sterilised jars it keeps through the winter.

Tip: Lyutenitsa is a staple of every Bulgarian pantry: children's after-school snack, spread on bread and sprinkled with sirene. The name comes from 'lyut' (hot) – how hot is up to you.