1. Soak the chickpeas the night before; the next day rub off the skins (pour away the skins that float to the top), then grind the raw chickpeas in a food processor into a very fine, flour-like mass.
2. Boil the potatoes in their skins until tender, peel and press through a ricer while still warm; knead with the chickpea mass, salt and pepper into a smooth dough that holds its shape.
3. Slice the onions into half-moons and cook with a little salted water in a pot for 20 minutes until completely soft and sweet; drain and mix with the tahini, pine nuts, raisins, cinnamon, allspice and salt.
4. Divide the dough into 6; spread one piece on a damp tea towel (or piece of cheesecloth) in a disc of about 20 cm, put a sixth of the filling in the middle, gather the four corners of the cloth to fold the dough up around the filling, twist it tightly into a parcel and tie the end.
5. Boil the parcels in plenty of lightly salted, rapidly boiling water for 20-25 minutes, then lift out, carefully unwrap and leave to cool.
6. Serve cold, cut into wedges, drizzled with lemon and a drop of olive oil – a traditional, special starter of the Armenian Lenten table.
Tip: If you have no cheesecloth, wrap them in baking paper or cling film and steam them in a steamer basket. The filling can be made ahead, even a day in advance.
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