1. Finely grate the lemon zest. Beat the eggs with the sugar and lemon zest using a mixer for 5-6 minutes until pale and fluffy.
2. With the mixer running, add the oil in a thin stream, then the milk.
3. Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt and fold gently into the egg mixture with a spatula so the foam doesn't collapse.
4. Cover the batter and chill for at least 1 hour (or overnight) – this is what makes the tops rise high. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 220 °C.
5. Fill paper cases three-quarters full, sprinkle the tops with a little sugar, bake for 5 minutes, then lower the heat to 190 °C and bake for another 10-12 minutes until golden.
6. Leave to cool on a rack and serve for breakfast with coffee or hot chocolate.
Tip: The characteristic "hat" comes from the thermal shock of cold batter and a hot oven – don't skip the resting time.
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