1. Preheat the oven to 220 °C; clean the button mushrooms (don't wash them, just wipe with damp paper) and carefully twist out the stalks – the caps should stay hollow.
2. Cut the butter into small cubes and coarsely grate the sulguni.
3. Lightly butter one or more small clay ketsi dishes (or an ovenproof frying pan) and lay the mushroom caps side by side, hollow side up; season lightly with salt and pepper.
4. Put a small cube of butter in each cap, put the dish in the oven and bake for 10 minutes until the mushrooms release their juices and the butter melts inside them.
5. Take out, sprinkle the mushrooms generously with the grated sulguni and bake for another 5-7 minutes until the cheese is melted, bubbling and lightly golden.
6. Serve piping hot straight from the dish with fresh bread to mop up the buttery, cheesy juices.
Tip: In Georgia ketsi dishes are also heated over embers or a gas flame; if you don't have one, a small cast-iron pan works just as well. You can use mozzarella instead of sulguni.
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