Jalisco-style spiced beef stew (Birria de res)

1. Stem and deseed the guajillo, ancho and árbol chilies, toast them briefly in a dry pan, then cover with hot water and soak for 20 minutes.

2. Char the tomatoes, the halved onion and the unpeeled garlic in a pan until blackened in patches; peel the garlic.

3. Blend the drained chilies with the charred vegetables, cider vinegar, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, oregano, salt and a little soaking liquid until smooth, then press through a sieve.

4. Cut the beef shin into large pieces, salt and brown on all sides in hot oil in a large pot; pour over the chili sauce and the water, bring to the boil, cover and simmer over low heat for 3-3½ hours until the meat falls apart.

5. Lift out the meat and shred it; ladle the red fat from the surface of the broth into a small bowl, taste the broth (consomé) and add salt if needed.

6. Divide the meat between deep bowls, ladle plenty of hot broth over it and serve with finely chopped onion and warm tortillas.

Tip: Tortillas dipped in the skimmed red fat, filled with cheese and meat and fried crisp in a pan are the famous quesabirria – eat them dunked in the broth.