Homemade ghee (clarified butter)

1. Cut the butter into cubes and put it in a heavy-based medium pan. Melt it slowly over low heat without stirring.

2. Once it has completely melted, turn the heat down as low as possible. The butter will start to foam as its water slowly evaporates: this sound and thick foam are the first stage of the process.

3. Cook for 20-30 minutes, gently scraping the bottom now and then. The foam gradually disappears, the liquid clears, and the milk solids at the bottom of the pan turn golden brown.

4. It is ready when the ghee is golden yellow and completely clear, the sizzling quietens, and it smells pleasantly nutty and caramel-like. Take it off the heat immediately, as it can burn in moments.

5. Let it cool for a few minutes, then strain through a sieve lined with a double layer of muslin or a paper coffee filter into a clean, dry jar. Discard the brown residue at the bottom.

6. Sealed, it keeps for weeks at room temperature and for months in the fridge; as it cools it sets to a grainy, creamy texture.

Tip: Ghee is the basic fat of Indian cooking: its high smoke point makes it ideal for frying and tadka, and with the milk protein removed it is better tolerated by people sensitive to lactose. Always use a completely dry spoon, as water makes it go rancid.