Crossing-the-bridge rice noodle soup (Guoqiao mixian)

1. Joint the whole chicken, blanch it in boiling water, rinse, then bring it to the boil with the cold water, the sliced ginger and 1 spring onion, skim off the foam and simmer gently for 3 hours.

2. Strain the broth without skimming off the fat on top (it keeps it hot), and season with salt and white pepper; pick the cooked chicken off the bones and set aside for another dish.

3. Cook the rice noodles according to the packet, rinse and set out in bowls.

4. Slice the raw chicken breast and peeled shrimp paper-thin, cut the ham into thin strips and the Chinese cabbage into strips, crack the quail eggs into small dishes; finely chop the coriander and remaining spring onions.

5. Heat the broth to a rolling boil and ladle it into large, pre-warmed bowls.

6. At the table, first add the raw chicken and shrimp to the hot broth, then the quail eggs, ham and cabbage, leave for 1 minute to cook, and finally add the noodles, coriander and spring onion.

Tip: Legend says a scholar's wife carried the meal this way across the bridge to her husband studying on an island – under the layer of fat the broth stayed hot. The broth must really be boiling and the bowls pre-warmed, otherwise the raw meat won't cook through.