Boiled pork belly in cabbage wraps (Bossam)

1. Separate the napa cabbage leaves, salt the thick parts and set aside for 1 hour until softened; then rinse thoroughly and squeeze dry.

2. Bring the water to the boil in a large pan, stir in the doenjang, and add the garlic, sliced ginger, halved onion and whole peppercorns.

3. Add the pork belly in one piece and simmer, covered, over low heat for 60-70 minutes, until a fork slides in easily.

4. Meanwhile cut the daikon into thin matchsticks, leave for 10 minutes with a little salt, squeeze out, then toss with the gochugaru, sugar, rice vinegar and grated garlic.

5. Lift out the pork, rest for 10 minutes, then cut into 5 mm slices and arrange on a platter next to the cabbage leaves, radish and kimchi.

6. Everyone places a slice of pork, a little radish and kimchi on a cabbage leaf, rolls it up and eats it in one bite.

Tip: Bossam was traditionally served on kimchi-making day (gimjang), alongside the fresh kimchi. The doenjang in the water removes any porky smell and adds a deep, gentle savouriness – the cooking liquid isn't meant for soup, so discard it.