1. You'll need cocktail sticks or short skewers for the gildas; make eight.
2. Blot the anchovy fillets in olive oil lightly on kitchen paper. If you can't find guindillas (Basque pickled green peppers), mildly hot pickled peperoncini are a good substitute.
3. On each skewer thread first an olive, then an anchovy fillet folded into waves, two pickled peppers and another olive.
4. Carry on until all the skewers are done – the classic gilda has three olives, one anchovy and two guindillas.
5. Lay them on a plate and drizzle with a drop or two of olive oil.
6. Serve immediately – it should be eaten in one bite.
Tip: The gilda was San Sebastián's first pintxo: it's named after Rita Hayworth's film "Gilda" – "green, salty and a little bit spicy", like the star herself.
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