Salt cod and potato purée (Brandade de morue)

1. Poach the cod (if salted, soaked the night before with several water changes) in plenty of water for a few minutes, then drain and flake it with a fork.

2. Boil the potatoes in their skins until soft, peel and mash them.

3. Heat the milk with the crushed garlic to just below boiling.

4. Beat the fish vigorously with a little olive oil and the warm garlic milk until it becomes a creamy, light mass.

5. Fold in the mashed potato and work it smooth, slowly adding the remaining olive oil.

6. Season with lemon juice and pepper, scatter with chopped parsley and serve warm with toast.

Tip: A classic of Provence and Languedoc. If you use salt cod, be sure to soak it well in advance. Toast slices of baguette and rub them with garlic – that is how it is at its best.