Fried potato puffs (Pommes dauphine)

1. Boil the potatoes in their skins, peel them and press through a ricer while still hot; let cool a little.

2. For the choux pastry, bring the water to the boil with half the butter and a pinch of salt, then tip in the flour all at once and stir to "dry" it on the heat into a thick paste.

3. Off the heat and slightly cooled, beat in the eggs one at a time until you have a glossy, thick choux.

4. Work the potato purée together with the choux, season with salt and pepper and grate in a pinch of nutmeg.

5. In plenty of hot (about 180 °C) sunflower oil, fry quenelles shaped with two spoons until golden and puffed.

6. Drain on kitchen paper and serve at once, hot.

Tip: Pommes dauphine is the brilliant marriage of potato purée and choux pastry – crisp outside, light and airy inside. The oil should not be too hot, so the puffs cook through inside before the outside burns.