Chestnut purée (Purée de marrons)

1. Put the chestnuts (if raw, pre-cooked and peeled) into a saucepan and pour over the milk.

2. Cook over low heat, covered, for about 20 minutes until the chestnuts are completely soft and have absorbed the milk.

3. Work the soft chestnuts into a cream with a stick blender or a potato ricer.

4. Add the butter and cream and beat into a smooth, silky purée.

5. Season with salt and pepper and grate in a pinch of nutmeg.

6. If too thick, loosen with a little warm milk; serve hot as a side dish.

Tip: Savoury chestnut purée is an unmatched side for game and poultry – the natural sweetness of the chestnut and the creaminess of the butter ennoble the roast. In a sweet version, with sugar and vanilla, it becomes a dessert.