Cheesy mashed potato (Aligot)

1. Cook the potatoes in their skins or peeled in salted water until soft, then drain.

2. While still hot, press them through a potato ricer (not a blender, which would turn them gluey and sticky).

3. Add the butter and cream to the purée and beat into a smooth, creamy mass; season with salt and pepper.

4. Grate in the garlic, then gradually add the grated mozzarella.

5. Over low heat, stir and pull vigorously with a wooden spoon until the cheese has melted completely and the purée is glossy and stretchy.

6. Serve at once, hot, pulling it into long strands – the spectacular hallmark of aligot.

Tip: Aligot is an icon of Auvergne cooking – the key is the stretchy, cheesy texture. Stir vigorously so the cheese "pulls into strands", and always serve at once, as it sets once cold.