Veal in white sauce (Blanquette de veau)

1. Put the diced veal in cold water, bring to the boil, then drain and rinse – this blanching keeps the sauce clean and pale.

2. Cover the meat with fresh water, add the half onion studded with cloves, the bay leaf, the sliced carrot and the leek, and simmer gently for about 1 hour until the meat is tender.

3. Meanwhile soften the pearl onions and the quartered mushrooms in a little butter.

4. Lift out the tender meat and vegetables; make a pale roux from the butter and flour, loosen it with the strained cooking liquid, and cook into a thick, smooth sauce.

5. Off the heat, stir in the cream beaten with the egg yolks and the lemon juice – it must NOT boil again or it will curdle.

6. Return the meat, mushrooms and pearl onions, warm through, season with salt and pepper, and serve scattered with parsley.

Tip: Blanquette is one of the best-loved stews in French homes – steamed rice is its natural partner. Always temper the egg-and-cream liaison with warm liquid so it does not split.