Parisian gnocchi from choux pastry (Gnocchi à la parisienne)

1. In a saucepan, bring the water to the boil with the butter and a pinch of salt, then add the flour all at once.

2. Stirring vigorously, "cook" the dough until it comes together into a smooth ball and pulls away from the side of the pan.

3. Cool slightly, then beat in the eggs one at a time; finally add half the grated gruyère and a pinch of nutmeg.

4. Pipe the dough from a piping bag into gently simmering (not boiling) salted water, cutting off bite-sized gnocchi.

5. When the gnocchi rise to the surface, lift them out with a slotted spoon and drain.

6. Arrange in a baking dish, scatter with the remaining cheese and gratinate at 200 °C until golden and bubbling.

Tip: Parisian gnocchi are made not from potato but from choux pastry – a light, cloud-like side. Keep the water at a bare shimmer, not a rolling boil, or the gnocchi fall apart.