Cheese choux puffs (Gougères)

1. In a saucepan, bring the water to the boil with the butter and a pinch of salt.

2. Add the flour all at once and, stirring vigorously, "cook" it until the dough pulls away from the side of the pan and comes together into a smooth ball.

3. Cool slightly, then beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well each time – you get a glossy dough that drops from the spoon.

4. Stir in most of the grated gruyère and a pinch of nutmeg.

5. Spoon walnut-sized mounds onto a lined baking tray and scatter with the remaining cheese.

6. Bake at 200 °C for about 20-25 minutes until puffed and golden; don't open the oven while baking.

Tip: Gougères are the savoury, cheesy ambassador of Burgundy cooking – the same choux pastry as for cream puffs. For a good rise, don't open the oven door while baking, or they will collapse.