Whole-head fermented cabbage (Kiseli kupus)

1. Choose firm, flat white cabbages; remove the outer leaves, cut out the core in a wedge about 4 cm deep and fill the hollow with salt (set some salt aside).

2. Leave the heads for 12 hours so the salt starts to work, then pack them tightly, core side up, into a clean plastic barrel or large container.

3. Tuck the bay leaves, peppercorns, juniper berries and hot peppers in between.

4. Mix a brine from the remaining salt and about 5 litres of water and pour it over so the heads are completely covered; weigh them down with a clean plate and a weight.

5. Ferment at 15-20 °C for 4-6 weeks; once a week draw off the brine with a tube or ladle and pour it back ('pretakanje') so it sours evenly.

6. When the leaves are yellowish, translucent and pleasantly sour, it's ready: use for sarma or podvarak, or sliced as a salad with oil and paprika.

Tip: There's no Serbian or Bosnian winter without kiseli kupus: it's the basis of sarma and podvarak. For a smaller batch, you can ferment separated leaves in a large jar – 2-3 weeks is enough.