1. Cut the catfish into 4 cm pieces; pound the galangal and shallots with the garlic to a paste and mix with the turmeric, fish sauce, sugar, shrimp paste and 1 tbsp oil; toss the fish in it and marinate for at least 1 hour.
2. Cook the fish on a hot grill or griddle pan for 2-3 minutes per side until golden yellow and lightly charred.
3. At the table or on the hob, heat the remaining oil in a frying pan, add the fish and pile on the big handful of roughly torn dill and the spring onions, cut into 4 cm lengths.
4. Toss for 1-2 minutes, just until the dill and spring onion wilt but stay bright green.
5. Meanwhile cook and drain the rice noodles; toast and roughly chop the peanuts; mix the fish sauce with the sugar, lime juice, 3 tbsp water and chilli to make a dip.
6. Everyone puts noodles, fish, dill, peanuts, mint and coriander in their own bowl and drizzles over the dip.
Tip: One of Hanoi's oldest dishes, with a whole street named after it. Here dill is a vegetable rather than a herb – don't be shy about using a whole bunch.
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